Once you have purchased a hydrogen generator, found a location in the car hood area for it, and connected it to the car battery, the job gets easy. The next step is connecting the hoses which will carry the hydrogen, to the fuel system of the vehicle.

This is where my ideas differ a bit from the norm. The installation instructions that came with my hydrogen generator want you to make one connection to the air intake system behind the aircleaner. That works fine for highway driving, but does not address city driving, and sitting at stop lights in idle. The problem as I see it, is that the air intake hose only pulls vacumn while accelerating. There is no air being sucked while idling at a stop light. So I split the hydrogen gas output between the air intake, and the intake manifold. The idea is that the intake manifold pulls vacumn while idling and thus sucks the hydrogen into the fuel system. When accelerating, the intake manifold slowly stops pulling hydrogen and allows the air intake system to literally take over. The idea works well, the car ran much better and smoother, and MPG’s went thru the roof with this type of connection. It also allowed me to run the car with just hydrogen when driving in the flat lands, and staying below 62 mph. I will follow up on that later.

So the delivery system I use for the hydrogen is very simple. First off throw away the nylon hoses that came with the Hydrogen Generator ( if that is what you get). Nylon is thin and it stands up to chemicals and hydrogen gas very well, but it flexes and bends. Any corner or bend you put in a nylon hose is suspect. It also tends to close halfway when you least need that to happen. Nylon hoses want to lie down or sag when the temps get hot as well. You might well find your hydrogen hose on a hot exhaust manifold or spark plug wire. Find a Lowes or Home Depot, then purchase braided heavy duty clear hoses. The material is a mixture of vinyl and polymers. This will cost you roughly 50 cents a ft. Buy $5 worth and you’ll be set. This type of hose is rugged, abrasion proof, has heavy side walls, and won’t close any at all if you turn a corner with it.

Keep your hoses short, see mine is the picture. Take the shortest path you can find. This is better functionally, and it looks better as well. I drilled a hole in the air duct behind my air cleaner and inserted a barbed 3/8” hose connector. This came with my hydrogen generator kit, but it sells for under $3 at any hardware store. I then located my PVC valve and the short hose that connects it to the intake manifold. Yours might be longer. I cut the hose in two, then inserted a white nylon 3/8” tee valve in between the two pieces. See my picture.

This is all the connections you need. I use about 4-5 ft of hose between the two connections. I recommend using black vinyl sealant around the air intake connector to seal any possible leaks. The tee connection will be sealed well from the hose it attaches to on either side at the intake manifold.

Run the hose from the HHO outlet on the water tank to the air cleaner. Cut the hose, put in another nylon tee, and run that to the intake manifold input. That’s it. Simple…

Understanding how this works, air consists of:

Nitrogen (N2): 78.09%
Oxygen (O2): 20.95%
Argon (Ar): 0.93%
Carbon dioxide (CO2): 0.038%
Others (less than 0.002% each): Neon (Ne), Helium (He), Krypton (Kr), Hydrogen (H2), Xenon (Xe).

The 78% Nitrogen is not combustible.  Does it serve some useful purpose in an internal combustion engine?

On an engine that is not equiped with a hydrogen converter, how much air, figuring 21% oxygen, does it require to operate?
Would it be possible to cut the engine off from sucking air and totally supplant it with the hydrogen and oxygen mixture, which I’m guessing would be 66% hydrogen and 33% oxygen, both 100% combustible?  Would a double tank hydrogen conversion unit suffice?

Erich

That is a well thought out question Eric. My guess is yes, that it would run. The single cell Hydro Super 2 hydrogen convertor makes 2.0 liters of hydrogen per minute. As you and several others know, I have been able to run the Saturn without gasoline for extended periods of time with just the hydrogen made from water. The car runs fine as long as the speed does not exceed 62 mph. What happens there is anyone’s guess. Does the speed that the car is going exceed the amount of time it take the hydrogen convertor to make hydrogen? Or, is the amount of hydrogen it produces not enough to meet the demand of the car without gasoline being added?

All my driving and testing has been with outside air being added, I have never tried cutting it off. Most farmers I know that use propane as fuel, also take in outside air. There are Oxygen Sensors on the input and output of every modern car, that sense how much oxygen is being burned in the cylinders. They can be tricked for the computer, but they might also pose a problem with no outside air going in. 33% is a lot of oxygen and it might set an error code. One way to defeat the Oxygen Sensor on the exhaust side is to put an extender between it and the exhaust manifold. Another is to add voltage 1 to 2 volts to the O2 sensor voltage. My take is that O2 sensor manipulation can be dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing, so I never mess with it. The fuel to air ratio is now about 20-1 on Honda and Toyota, it used to be 14.7 to 1 which is what I run on the gasoline side of things with the Saturn. If you get the fuel to air ratio too lean, you can heat up and damage the engine.

That begs the question that you also asked, would a larger double cell hydrogen generator provide enough hydrogen to run the car at all times without gasoline? That is something I have been asking myself, along with “how much is too much hydrogen?” I just don’t know. I have been at this for less than half a year. Maybe I will find out sometime. Thanks!